Introduction

Understanding your hair type is the foundational step toward building an effective hair care routine. Without knowing your hair type, you risk using products or styling methods that don’t suit your hair’s needs, leading to dryness, breakage, frizz, or limpness. In this guide, you will learn how to identify your hair type precisely — from curl pattern to texture, density, porosity, and more — so you can choose the best care for your unique strands.

In this article, you’ll discover:

• The major components of “hair type” (curl pattern, texture, density, porosity, etc.)

• Step-by-step tests you can do at home

• Tips for interpreting results

• Why it matters for product choice and styling

Let’s dive in.

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What Does “Hair Type” Mean?

When people say “hair type,” they usually refer not to a single characteristic, but a combination of factors:

1. Curl / wave / coil pattern

2. Strand texture (fine, medium, coarse)

3. Density (how many hairs per square inch)

4. Porosity (how easily hair absorbs and retains moisture)

5. Elasticity / strength / health

6. Other factors, like hair thickness, length, and whether your hair is chemically treated

By combining these, you get a more complete picture of your hair. Two people may both have “curly hair,” but one might have fine, low-density hair, while the other has coarse, high-density curls. Their care needs will differ.

Many hair care systems (such as the Andre Walker system) focus primarily on curl / coil pattern as the first dimension. 

Below we break down each dimension and show you how to test and interpret.

Curl / Wave / Coil Pattern (Curl Pattern)

Arguably the first thing people think about when identifying hair type is the curl or wave pattern. Here’s how to classify it:

The Andre Walker Hair Typing System

Developed by stylist Andre Walker, this widely used system divides hair into four main types (1, 2, 3, 4), each with subtypes (A, B, C) depending on the curl tightness or waviness. Wikipedia+2Healthline+2

How to test for your curl pattern:

1. Wash and air dry your hair without styling products.

2. Once hair is dry, observe the shape of the strands:

   • If your hair falls straight from root to tip with no bends → Type 1

   • If it forms soft “S” shapes but no full loops → Type 2

   • If you see full loops or curls → Type 3

   • If your hair forms tight coils or zig-zag shapes (maybe with shrinkage) → Type 4

3. Notice that you may have mixed patterns — some parts of your hair may behave like 2C, others like 3A.

Because many people have multiple curl patterns on their head, pick the most dominant or the one in your crown zone (top) for care guidance.

Allure describes how curl pattern is best judged when hair is sopping wet, then observed as it dries. 

Strand Texture (Fine / Medium / Coarse)

Strand texture refers to the diameter or thickness of a single hair strand. Even curly or coily hair can be fine or coarse.

How to test strand texture:

• Take a single strand (e.g. from your brush or shed hair), and roll it between your fingers (thumb and forefinger). If you barely feel it, it’s fine; if you feel it distinctly but not heavy, medium; if it feels thick, coarse, strong — coarse. 

• Another method: comparison test. Lay the hair alongside a piece of thread (e.g. a sewing thread). If your hair is thinner than the thread, it’s fine; thicker than the thread, coarse; similar thickness, medium. 

Some notes:

• Fine hair is more fragile and tends to break easily.

• Coarse hair can take more styling, more product, more heat, but can also dry out.

• Medium hair (sometimes called “normal”) is the most versatile.

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Density (How Many Hairs)

Hair density is about how full your hair looks — how closely hairs sit to each other on your scalp.

How to test density:

• Part your hair in a few places. If you can see your scalp easily, you probably have low density. If you see some scalp but not too much, medium density. If you can’t see scalp at all, high density.

• Another method: make a ponytail (if long enough) and measure its circumference:

  • Less than ~2 inches → low density

  • 2–3 inches → medium density

  • 4+ inches → high density 

High-density hair often needs products that manage volume; low-density hair benefits from lighter formulas and volumizing techniques.

Porosity (How Well Your Hair Absorbs / Retains Moisture)

Porosity is less talked about but very important. It describes how easily your hair can absorb and retain moisture. Two people with the same curl pattern may behave differently based on porosity.

There are three porosity levels:

• Low porosity — the hair cuticle is tightly bound, making it difficult to absorb moisture

• Normal (medium) porosity — hair absorbs and retains moisture fairly well

• High porosity — cuticle has gaps or damage, so hair absorbs moisture quickly but also loses it quickly

How to test porosity:

1. Float (or sink) test

   • Take a clean, product-free hair strand, place it in a glass of room-temperature water.

   • If it floats for a while → low porosity

   • If it sinks quickly → high porosity

   • If it hovers or sinks slowly → medium porosity

2. Spray or water absorption test

   • Mist a section of hair with water. If water beads up on the surface → low porosity. If water soaks in immediately → high porosity.

3. Time to get wet test

   • In the shower, notice how long your hair stays “dry” before it becomes fully wet. If it resists absorbing water, it’s likely low porosity; if it soaks immediately, high porosity.

Understanding porosity helps you choose products (lipids, proteins, humectants) that your hair will benefit from.

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Elasticity / Strength / Health

While not always labeled a “type,” elasticity tells you how healthy your hair is.

How to test elasticity:

• Dampen a small strand of hair, gently stretch it. A healthy strand will stretch and return without breaking. If it breaks, it’s weak.

• Over-processed or damaged hair often lacks elasticity.

This will help inform how aggressively you style, apply heat, or use chemical treatments.

Putting It All Together: Your Hair “Profile”

Once you’ve gathered curl pattern, texture, density, porosity, and elasticity, you have a “hair profile.” For example:

Type 3B, coarse texture, medium density, high porosity, good elasticity

This kind of profile informs what products work best, what styling methods are ideal, and how to maintain consistency.

Also note:

• You may have multiple curl patterns on the same head. Use the most dominant or average.

• Your hair profile may shift over time (age, hormones, treatment, environment).

• Sometimes you may need to re-test if hair has been processed (colored, bleached, heat) because these alter porosity and strength.

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Step-by-Step At-Home Identification Guide

Here’s a streamlined method you can follow over a few days:

1. Reset

   • Clarify your hair (remove buildup).

   • Let your hair dry naturally without heavy products.

2. Observe curl / wave / coil pattern

   • Once dry, note the shape (straight, S-wave, loops, coils).

   • Use the Andre Walker framework.

3. Texture test

   • Take a single strand, roll between fingers.

   • Compare it to a thread if needed.

4. Density test

   • Part your hair in multiple spots.

   • See how visible your scalp is.

   • (Optional) Ponytail circumference method if hair is long.

5. Porosity test

   • Use the float test — a clean strand in water.

   • Alternatively, mist and check absorption.

6. Elasticity test

   • Dampen a strand; gently stretch.

7. Document your results

   • Write them down or take photos.

   • You now have your hair profile.

8. Adjust with experience

   • Use products / techniques for this profile

   • Note how your hair responds and refine.

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Examples: What Hair Profiles May Look Like

Here are a few sample profiles and what you might expect:

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Why Identifying Your Hair Type Matters

• Product matching – You’ll know which ingredients and textures your hair will absorb or tolerate (e.g. light vs heavy oils, humectants, proteins).

• Avoid trial and error – Save money and hair health by not buying random products.

• Better styling techniques – You’ll understand what tools and methods (diffusers, plopping, finger coiling) suit your curls.

• Healthier hair over time – You’ll be less likely to damage hair by using inappropriate techniques.

• Confidence and personalization – You can tailor a routine that works for you, rather than generic advice.

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Common Mistakes & Misconceptions

• Believing your hair fits neatly into only one category. Many people have mixed hair types.

• Using “curl type” alone — ignoring texture, porosity, or density.

• Not cleaning residue before testing (product buildup can skew porosity or curl shape).

• Thinking hair type never changes — it absolutely can due to hormones, aging, treatment, or damage.

• Picking products solely by marketing (“for curly hair”) without considering your hair’s profile.

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Tips & Bonus Tests

• Section testing – If your hair length allows, test each quadrant (front, back, sides) — some areas may differ.

• Repeat tests over time — especially after coloring, perming, or heat damage.

• Ask a professional — a trusted stylist or trichologist can confirm your hair profile.

• Observe reaction — how your hair behaves with a few sample products can help validate your profile.